A stone's throw from Cincinnati, cabin's historical charms blend with modern-day conveniences - Lifestyle - The Columbus Dispatch

BURLINGTON, Ky. - The marvels and luxuries of modern life are not so easy to take for granted while experiencing them in a 160-year-old log cabin. As I lay on my plush, comfortable bed watching a DVD on the high-definition television, contemplating whether I would next opt for a steam shower or a bath in the suite's oversized whirlpool tub, I had to wonder what William Rouse, the cabin's original owner, would have made of it all.

Steve Stephens, Dispatch

BURLINGTON, Ky. The marvels and luxuries of modern life are not so easy to take for granted while experiencing them in a 160-year-old log cabin.

As I lay on my plush, comfortable bed watching a DVD on the high-definition television, contemplating whether I would next opt for a steam shower or a bath in the suites oversized whirlpool tub, I had to wonder what William Rouse, the cabins original owner, would have made of it all.

The cabin is one of the lodging options at the lovely Willis Graves Inn in the historic town of Burlington, about 20 miles south of Cincinnati.

Rouse, a farmer, constructed the cabin in the 1850s on property that much later became part of the Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International Airport.

The cabin was slated for demolition as part of a runway expansion, but innkeepers Nancy and Bob Swartzel bought the structure for $1 and moved the cabins 216 poplar logs about 4 miles, then reassembled them.

The Swartzels also did a bit of updating (OK, more than a bit), refurbishing the rustic structure and creating a delightful retreat appropriate for a romantic getaway or a refreshing base of operations for the business traveler. A scrapbook at the inn containing photographs of the laborious reconstruction process is well worth a look.

Today the cabin contains two large guest suites that can be connected for larger groups.

Three more guest rooms and the inns dining room are located in the Willis Graves House, which gives the inn its name. The house, a Federal-style brick structure, was built in the 1830s by wealthy land owner Willis Graves and is actually older than the Rouse cabin, now situated just behind the house.

My cabin suite also included the structures large finished basement another innovation at which Rouse would have undoubtedly marveled. The upper floor of the suite was so spacious that I never used the basement sitting and play area. Combined, the suite covers 1,000 square feet.

In truth, it seems I spent most of my in-suite time in the bathroom.

Id never experienced a steam shower before and doubted its utility. But I decided to give it a try before I set out for dinner.

I found that standing in a cloud of 110-degree steam, under a cool stream of water from the showerhead, was absolutely exhilarating. So I took a second shower after dinner, just for fun.

The big whirlpool tub was impossible to resist, too. Yes, that makes two showers and a bath in one day. By the end of my stay I was probably the cleanest Ive ever been.

After my last shower, I poured myself a glass of wine, popped in a DVD from the inns large collection and melted into my queen-size canopy bed.

I briefly considered getting up to slip on the plush, inn-provided robe that I had forgotten to don, but by this time it was too late. I was too comfortable and relaxed to move anything other than my wine-drinking hand.

I also pondered the wonders of modern life. Ive no doubt that any king of the 1850s would have gladly traded his palace for the cabin as it is today, with its indoor plumbing, fine linens, electricity, central heat, high-speed Internet, cable television/DVD player and, of course, that heavenly steam shower.

The most marvelous 19th-century breakfast also would have nothing on breakfast at the Graves House, a scrumptious, filling affair. Nancy Swartzel cooks a fine breakfast pie (think quiche) of the day, but youll also want to try the creme brulee French toast, which I found almost as addictive as the steam shower.

The inn is located less than a mile from the heart of Burlington, the village that serves as the Boone County seat. The village is unincorporated, but that hasnt hindered efforts by the Burlington Business Association to preserve the architecture and to promote visits.

Ten years ago there wasnt much here for visitors, Mrs. Swartzel said. We didnt even have any restaurants in town.

But there has been a lot of progress, from a visitors perspective, since that time, she said.

The few blocks of historic Burlington comprise several wonderful 19th- and early 20th-century homes, commercial buildings and churches in addition to the Boone County Courthouse, built in 1889. A walking tour brochure and historic markers detail the history of 20 of the buildings, most within a block or two of the courthouse.

Visitors will find several good local restaurants in Burlington, including the Tousey House Tavern in what was once a private mansion built in 1822 and the Central House Diner in the former Central House Hotel built about 1840.

The town is also home to several antiques stores and the Burlington Antiques Show, a monthly event held from April through October at the Boone County Fairgrounds, directly adjacent to the inn. (The Swartzels, who had been longtime visitors to the antiques show, originally bought the Graves house with plans to make it an antiques store.)

Visitors to Burlington should also make the short, scenic drive to Rabbit Hash, a tiny Ohio River settlement thats home to Rabbit Hash General Store, the old-timeyist of old-time stores and a going concern since 1831.

The store is home to Sundays by the Stove musical performances during the winter, and the town (its more of a wide spot in the road, really) hosts several concerts and arts events during the summer. Take note: It doesnt take many visitors to pack little Rabbit Hash, which happens on many summer weekends.

Rabbit Hash, too, has an interesting form of government. Since 2005, the mayor has been a dog. The current administration is a headed up by a border collie named Lucy Lou who reportedly beat out nine other canines, a cat, a opossum, a jackass and one human in the last election. Alas thats one recent innovation that has not been universally instituted.