Brimstone, Cumbria - hotel review
I have never been as underprepared for a trip to the Lake District as I am today. Stepping off the train at Oxenholme in ballet pumps and a flimsy jumper, I’m more fit for London, which I left behind less than three hours ago, than the great outdoors. As the rain begins, I wonder whether I should have at least packed a waterproof jacket.
Happily, I’m bound for the Brimstone Hotel, which recently partnered with Berghaus to lend city-slickers wet-weather gear, so they can make the most of the location minus the luggage.
Set in the 35-acre Langdale Estate at the entrance to one of the most beautiful Lake District valleys, the hotel is surrounded by fantastic fell walks. Billing itself as “beyond boutique”, it opened in 2013 next door to sister hotel the Langdale, which has 56 traditional rooms and a spa that Brimstone guests can use.
Within 45 minutes of being collected from the station in a gleaming black Land Rover (a free service available to guests) I’m outside the slick building. Clad in blue-grey slate from a nearby quarry, it blends in with its surroundings while also showcasing a sharp, contemporary style with timber panelling and glass-fronted balconies. From 1823 until 1930 this site was a gunpowder works, and the grounds are now studded with the original millstones used to grind up elements of the explosives, including sulphur, or brimstone.
Just inside the entrance there’s a warming fire, and a little further on The Bootroom, where guests have free use of the latest Berghaus products, including walking boots, waterproof jackets, trousers and backpacks. Not packing my own gear suddently doesn’t feel so foolish.
The ostrich egg-shaped bath in the Mezzanine Loft SuiteOn trend, there’s no reception desk. Instead, guests are greeted and looked after by a nine-strong team of “hosts” who are on hand to do everything from parking cars in the underground parking slots to recommending walking routes. It helps that the majority of them are local, so have a good knowledge of the area.
I’m met by Sarah, originally from Kendal, who is dressed in the host’s smart-casual uniform of jeans, white shirt and tweed waistcoat. Heading upstairs, we pass the Reading Room, a cosy, first-floor lounge providing a quiet spot for well-heeled guests to dip into newspapers and books. The back wall is well stocked with complimentary drinks — including bottles of beer and wine — and snacks such as scones (with fresh cream in the fridge), individually wrapped sandwiches and an evening cheese board. Sarah encourages me to help myself, day or night.
The 16 suites come in five categories, from the Duet Suite with two side-by-side baths to the Mezzanine Loft Suite, where I’m staying. It’s double-height, with a king-size bed upstairs and bi-fold doors that open to a balcony with a table and chairs, blankets — and pine trees beyond.
The Duet SuiteInside there are two plump sofas, a side table crafted from a tree trunk and a large slate fireplace with logs and kindling, waiting to be lit. I spend an hour watching the flames flicker, though the rising heat does make the bedroom rather hot at night.
I pull open a door downstairs and find an ostrich egg-shaped bath, while upstairs there is an en-suite shower room with Orla Kiely toiletries.
The colour scheme is soft — duck-egg blue, oatmeal and coffee — and walls are adorned with black-and-white photos of Lake District scenes. It’s chic, luxurious and pristine, yet nothing about Brimstone feels stuffy.
Mod cons include electronic curtains, hair-straighteners, iPhone docking stations and light switches with four settings: “perky” (bright), “lazy” (dimmed), “sexy” (dimmed even more) and “tinkle” (so you don’t trip over during a night-time visit to the bathroom).
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For dinner I head to Purdey’s, the restaurant at the Langdale, where the atmosphere is relaxed and my Morecambe Bay saddle of lamb is excellent. Wines on the menu come under light-hearted sub-categories, such as “bootylicious” reds and enticing “show-off” champagnes.
A three-course meal in this candlelit room with a fire and slate pillars costs around £40, but there is Hobson’s Bar and The Terrace for cheaper on-site dining. Summer will see an entirely new restaurant, Stove, plus a new spa with indoor and outdoor thermal pools. A short walk away is Wainwright’s Inn, also operated by the Langdale Estate, which serves comfort food such as jacket potatoes (£6.75) and steak-and-ale pie (£13.50).
In the morning I wake up to a knock at the door, and another host brings in a tray laden with croissants, fruit, a pot of tea and, beneath a silver cloche, perfectly runny eggs Benedict. It’s the best breakfast in bed I’ve ever had and sets me up for an active day.
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Most people come to Brimstone to relax — and, according to fellow guests I meet, some don’t even leave the hotel. But if you can tear yourself away from the indoor luxuries there is plenty to keep you busy outdoors.
Hosts can drive you to the start of a good walking route, such as the Stickle Ghyll with its gushing waterfalls and mirror-flat tarn, before collecting you again. And if the weather is kind, they can also organise stand-up paddle boarding on Lake Windermere and cycling excursions.
I spend an afternoon pedalling through Beatrix Potter countryside with Ben Clarke, a Langdale Estate plumber who also happens to be UK vice-champion in gravity enduro mountain biking. Ben gives me riding tips as we bump along open meadows dotted with sheep, and points out landmarks including the distant pointy peak of Helvellyn.
We stop for a pint at Tower Bank Arms, next door to Potter’s 17th-century farmhouse Hill Top, before making our final push back to Brimstone. At times it’s tough riding, but it’s all the sweeter knowing I’m returning to my bedroom fire and tomorrow’s breakfast in bed.
Brimstone, Langdale Estate, Great Langdale, Nr Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 9JD (0153 943 8062; brimstonehotel.co.uk). Doubles from £275 including breakfast, Reading Room treats, Berghaus kit hire and Langdale Spa access. There’s a 20 per cent saving on these rates when booked 30 days in advance online.
The writer travelled with Virgin Trains (0871 977 4222; virgintrains.co.uk) from Euston to Oxhenholme. Advance fares from £16.50 one way.
Windermere Canoe Kayak (015394 44451; windermerecanoekayak.com) offers bike hire from £20 a day and paddleboards from £15.
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